Laos (recap)

I just have to clarify something from my post the other day… it’s not that I’m looking for a starbucks or mcdonalds while I'm traveling or anything, it’s just that I don’t know that I’ve ever been in a country before where there were none. Like there are absolutely no western chains what so ever in Laos. That is a first for me. And I guess it is because the Lao government has banned those kinds of businesses. It was weird in Thailand, there were 7 11’s everywhere, but there is none of that here in Laos. I mean it’s cool. It’s really cool. It’s just crazy.
I’m trying to remember if there were any western chains in Jordan, and I don’t remember seeing any, but for some reason I feel like there must have been. There are definitely western hotel chains like the Radisson, (that get bombed, lol) so there must be mc donalds. And I think that maybe in the airport in Amman there was a dunken donuts or cinibon or something like that, but I can’t really remember. There was definitely all of that stuff in Egypt. And Guatemala and for sure in every other country I’ve ever been to. So Laos is a first on that front. I guess it is still a communist country and they are still trying to keep a lot of western influence out.
Most people I've talked to, (that actually knows where Laos is) have said they wanted to come here. But there are plenty of people who don’t even know where Laos is. The older Australian couple said that whenever they would tell their friends they were going to Laos, they would all say, “oh yeah, I’ve always wanted to go to Vietnam.” But the backpacker types and those who know go, “oh yeah, Laos, cool, I really want to go there. I’ve heard it’s great.” And the reason they all want to come here is because not very many people have been here yet. Everyone wants to do that thing that no one else has done so they can feel so special or whatever. I only know of one other person who has been to Laos. Pretty much everyone that works for STA Travel has been to Thailand and Vietnam and lots of people have been to Cambodia, but nobody ever mentions Laos. And in my 6 years of working at STA Travel, I have never flown one person into Laos, or booked a hotel room here or anything. I’m sure some of my customer’s have come here, and have probably just taken the train or the bus from Thailand and booked it locally, but the point I’m trying to make is that Laos is still not a very touristy place and still feels pretty far off the map and under the radar.

Coming here sort of feels like going back in time (aka, boring as hell). Ok, maybe that’s not fair to say. And maybe what I’ve learned has less to do with Laos as it does with my own personal travel style. When I travel, I’m not necessarily looking to go to the place that no one else has been, where there are no western comforts and where there are no luxuries. The village lifestyle is just not for me. And Laos feels like one big village stuck in the past. I mean that’s cool. That is what a lot of people are looking for when they travel. That place that is off the beaten path and still authentic. And Laos is still that, I think. It’s different and I have never been anywhere like it. It was an experience for sure, but having been there, I’m not really dying to go back anytime soon. I’m really glad I came but I sort of feel like, ok, been there done that. Which is kind of weird because most places I visit, I’m like, “well, the next time I come back I want to do this and this and this.” Like I know for sure I want to go back to Thailand. And I saw a lot of Egypt, but not Alexandria and I’d love to go back someday. And like I said, maybe it says more about me than it does about Laos. I guess I like the chaos and variety of a big modern city. In Laos they didn’t even have surnames until like 1957, when the government made them mandatory. And even in the big cities, we weren’t even really staying in hotels but in family run guest houses that all lock their doors and gates at midnight. And we weren’t doing that just because it’s cheaper. It’s like that is pretty much all there is. And I guess it doesn’t really matter because there is nothing to go out and do at night anyway. In Luang Prabang there was a little nightclub at a hotel that stayed open until midnight and played like 60’s and 70’s music. No thanks. You can order a cocktail in Laos, but you really don’t want to. They maybe have a book that tells them what to put in a drink, but they are using who only knows, what brand of liquor and something then that should be frozen and blended comes out looking like it is (it is thick and stuff is suspended), but then you taste it and it’s warm and your like, “ick, what the hell could this be?!” Vodka and orange juice seemed like my safest option, but sometimes I’d wonder if there was even any Vodka in there. One of the American guys kept trying to get a martini and every time it caused mass confusion so he’d just change his order to vodka and ice. And the drink costs like twice as much as your whole meal, so after a few attempts I just gave up on that all together. Although everyone seems to enjoy the Lao Beer. That is really the onl way to go, but I don’t like beer, so… You’re better off just going to bed early in Laos anyway, because no matter what you’re gonna get woken up at 6am, which seems like the busiest time of day here. Roosters and other birds are going nuts, the people are starting breakfast, and starting to clean stuff and do laundry (outside with no machines) clinking and clanking things all around.
The food here isn’t bad, but it isn’t nearly as good as in Thailand and in Vietnam (not that I’ve been to Vietnam yet, but so I’ve heard). And everyone says the people in Laos are so nice, but like whatever, I almost got mugged and yesterday one of the ladies dropped her camera and didn’t realize it for a second and then turned around and some Lao woman was picking it up and stuffing it in her shirt so she had to run over there and be all, “hey, that’s my camera!” Not that I blame the Lao people for being the way people are everywhere else in the world, it’s just that for some reason they have this reputation as being so docile and nice and smiley and kind. But I didn’t really feel that. Our Intrepid guide said she has never heard of someone getting mugged in Laos or a camera being snatched before this trip, so I don’t know if it is sort of recently that this kinds of stuff is starting to happen here or what. I mean you always have to be responsible for yourself and your stuff, and you can’t blame people who are really desperate for trying to take advantage of some stupid tourists I guess. I don’t know.
One of my favorite things to do when I’m traveling is to try to see some local art and get a taste of the local culture. And here I saw a few paintings in the market and some musicians and dancers in restaurants but that was about it. The Lao traditional music and dancing is nice I guess, but it seems very similar to the Thai style. And did you know that in order for the dancers to get their fingers to be able to bend back that (in the Lao and Thai dancing they do all this stuff with their hands and their fingers and their fingers bend in ways that are not natural!) they soak their hands in hot water every morning and bend their fingers back, starting at a really young age. Ouch!
Anyway, I guess what I’m saying is that Laos didn’t quite live up to the hype for me. And maybe it has more to do with me than it does Laos. When I was planning this trip I totally expected Laos to be one of the highlights, but I don’t really know what I was expecting exactly...
Laos is super cheap! That is one thing I expected and one thing I got. Cheaper than Egypt and Thailand, for sure. You can get an hour massage for $2.50. You can eat a big lunch for $1. You can bargain in the markets and get all kinds of stuff for really cheap. So that was cool, I guess. Although, personally, cheap doesn’t always translate into the best thing for me, lol. Thailand was cool because there is a little bit of everything. You could do it on the cheap or you could spoil yourself in luxury. There is lots of historical stuff, but lots of interesting modern stuff to. And I guess that is more my style. I like to mix it up. But in Laos, there still aren’t many options. You take what you can get and that’s about it. But the nature and scenery here is really beautiful. It’s all green with limestone mountains and caves and rivers and thatched huts and outdoor markets and stuff. And it is almost devoid of all western influence, or at least American influence, and since there are so few places left on Earth like that, I’d say that is what makes Laos so special.
And I would recommend it to anyone who wanted to see that kind of stuff, but I’d suggest a slightly different itinerary than what I did. I’d skip the Mekong part all together. I’d take the 12 hour night train from Bangkok to Vientiane. Spend a few days there and then on to Vang Vieng. Spend a few days there and then on to Luang Prabang. Spend a few days there and then fly out of Luang Prabang. But like I said, I think I’m crossing Laos off my list. I’m really glad I came and got to spend a week or so, but I’m not sad to be leaving.
(I wrote this a few days ago, but just got to post it now. Also, I'll have a link up to my Laos pics in just a few.)